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Chile Information Pack - Trekking / Hiking Trips
What you need to send to Muir's Tours and when
Here’s a quick checklist of important items we need back from you, and when they’re due. Copy, paste and print all of this or just the segments you want.
1. Our Booking Form, signed and fully completed. An unsigned copy by email is enough to get your reservation in place. Immediately. Please email the unsigned booking form and later when you have flights and insurance send a hard copy of the form.
2. Details of your airline schedule, ideally before you commit to it. We need to ensure that you will arrive on time to meet our group and we will arrange to meet you at the airport. Send this at the very early stages of making the trek booking.
3. Your Final Payment 60 days before departure.
4. A copy of your travel insurance policy including the name of the company, their emergency contact number and the detailed terms and conditions. At least 30 days before departure.
5. Your Medical History & Certificate (signed by your physician if you are over 65). At least 30 days before departure.
Essential Travel Documents
Your passport expiry date is important because many countries, including Chile and Argentina, won’t let you enter unless your passport is valid for at least six months beyond the date you complete your trip.
If you hold a passport issued in US /Canada /Australia /European Union you do not need a visa to enter Chile. You will be given a Tourist Card at the airport when you enter Chile. Make sure you keep it with your passport as you will need it when you leave the country.
As requirements can change, often without warning, we strongly suggest you check with the consulates of Chile and Argentina for entry requirements.
Travel Insurance
Flying to and from Chile
When You Arrive in Santiago from your country of origin you MUST
collect your baggage and go through customs, before taking any internal
flights to Punta Arenas or elsewhere, otherwise you will experience serious
delays in retrieving your baggage at the smaller provincial airfields. Please
ensure your flight schedule allows sufficient time for the collection of
your baggage at Santiago.
If you have asked us to arrange any transfers from the airport in Santiago and / or in Punta Arenas or other local airport you will find our representative /driver outside the customs area. You will identify our representative as he/she will have a signboard with your name on it.
If you run into problems along your journey, (cancelled flight, missed flight, missing baggage) push onward! We will help you sort out any problems once you are arrive at the point where we expect to meet you (you will be notified of the in the final weeks before you leave for Chile).
A “processing fee collected under reciprocity” is levied for some countries at the international port of entry in Santiago. The fee is payable in US dollars (no other currency is accepted) upon arrival in Chile.
The estimated fees are (please allow for increases of up to say 50%):
US$61 for US citizens. The receipt is valid for multiple entries during the validity of the traveller's passport.
US$55 for Canadian citizens. The receipt is valid for multiple entries during the validity of the traveller's passport.
US$30 for Australian citizens. The receipt is valid for 3 months.
US$15 for Mexican citizens. The receipt is valid for 3 months.
When flying to Punta Arenas from Santiago we can easily book your local flights in Chile. We handle many flights for our clients and we can coordinate the best flight departures to match our itineraries in Patagonia and elsewhere in Chile. All tickets issued are electronic tickets, so you can collect them directly at the Lan Chile check in desk at any Chilean airport.
You must arrive in Punta Arenas before 13.00 hours on the first day of your itinerary.
Most of our trips in Patagonia start at the airport in Punta Arenas between 12:00 and 13:00 hours. If flying the same day from Santiago, we ask you to book the first or second Lan Chile flight available (usually the first flight leaves Santiago at 7:40 AM and arrives 12:00, and the second flight leaves Santiago at 9:00 AM and arrives Punta Arenas at 12:25 PM. Those flights might have stopovers in Temuco and/or Puerto Montt).
We cannot wait for clients arriving on flights scheduled to land in Punta Arenas after 1:00PM! If you expect to arrive after 13.00 you should arrange with us for a private transfer to Torres del Paine National Park, at extra cost.
The last day of your trip with us you will leave the park after breakfast. It is a 6 -7 hour drive to Punta Arenas; when booking your flight back home, we ask you to book the last flight available on this day or ideally, any on the next day. The last flight to Santiago usually leaves Punta Arenas at 18:45 hours and arrives Santiago at 22:25. When You depart from Santiago there will be an airport departure tax of US$26 to pay. This tax can be paid in US dollars or local currency ( in some cases this tax may be included in your ticket price).
Extending Your TripIf you want to add travel to other regions of Chile or Argentina either before or after the trip, please let us know without delay. We offer amazing packages around Santiago, the Atacama desert, the Lake District, Easter Island and many more.
Preparing Physically for the Trip (only applicable to trekking trips - not nature trips)
A trek in Patagonia requires a lot more physical preparation than most vacations. On PAT017, PAT025, PAT026, PAT090 you will be hiking between five to ten hours a day, mostly on steep and rocky terrain. Although the hikes themselves are not particularly strenuous, their length and challenging terrain will be more taxing than expected. Please keep in mind that the weather in Patagonia can change drastically and unexpectedly, causing the temperatures to drop. These weather conditions can easily affect both the body and your morale. You need to be in excellent health and physical condition to enjoy such an experience.
If you are not already conditioned to such exercise you should start your training sessions at least several months before departure, slowly building up the output.
Conditioning Program
Here is a program that should get you conditioned for your hiking trip. This
is only a guideline and can be adapted to your preferences. Consult a
physician before commencing any new workout program.
Week 1 through 4: Start moderately and work out a minimum of four days per week. Strike a good balance between aerobic workout and muscle strengthening. Outdoors, you can run, hike, or mountain bike on hilly terrain to best achieve the aerobic fitness component. Indoors at a gym, you can use the Stairmaster and treadmill wearing a backpack with some weight in it to substitute for the outdoor activities. Work on muscle strengthening either by lifting weights or by doing pushups, sit-ups, and squats. Include a long hike at the weekend (there’s no better way to train for a trek than to trek!).
Running: 3 to 5 miles is an adequate training run.
Biking: 1 to 2 hour rides. Try to include some hills.
Hiking: 5 to 6 hour hikes. Try to include some hills.
Treadmill or Stairmaster: 50- to 60-minute sessions every other day.
Week 5 and Onward until Departure: Increase your workouts to a minimum of five days per week.
Remember that a Patagonia trek can be the trip of a lifetime and you really want to enjoy it, so please take your training program seriously, it’ll be worth it!
Medical Matters
It’s important that we have medical information on each trip member for use
by the leader in the field and to ensure that everyone is suitable for
the trip. The trip leader is responsible for the safety of all trip
members and he or she may evacuate or disqualify a trip member in the field if
anyone’s safety is jeopardised. No refunds are given if a trip member has to
leave the trip.
Please be aware that hospital facilities for serious medical problems may at times be a long way away, that a doctor may not always be available, and that evacuation can be prolonged, difficult, and expensive.
Remember that we are not a medical authority and that we can only give you general information, which may not be accurate by the time you travel. You should confer with your physician. Other good Web sites for travel preparation information are http://www.thehtd.org/content/travel.asp and http://www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk/
No immunisations were required by law at the time of writing these notes to enter Chile or Argentina. The standard recommended immunisations are:
• Tetanus
• Hepatitis A
• Typhoid
Regulations and professional opinions and recommendations change frequently, so you MUST check with your local health department, normal medical advisor or the travel clinics online.
Staying Healthy
While trekking with us: We supply plenty of clean drinking water at our camps, and your guides will carry a water filter on all the hikes, so you will be able to refill your water bottle if necessary. Keep in mind, however, that a body of water may not always be readily accessible. You should let your guides know that you will need more water before your water bottle is completely empty. The food served to you is safe and prepared hygienically by an experienced camp staff.
At Hotels and On Your Own: Although the tap water at hotels is generally drinkable, you can buy bottled water at the local stores.
Personal Medical
Kit
Our guides carry a first aid kit for emergencies, but you must
bring your own personal first aid supplies. Please bring with you,
as a minimum the following items in a personal first aid kit, antibiotics,
pain killers, allergy medicine (epi-pens for allergic reactions to bee
stings), plasters and remedies for dealing with blisters.
Money Matters
You won’t need to take a great deal of money on this trip, just enough
for any souvenirs you buy plus a few meals that are not included. US
dollars are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants, and shops. However, you
will need local currency out of the cities; again, just enough for drinks,
souvenirs, and incidental items. Between $100 to $300 should be enough
for incidentals and souvenirs, depending on how much shopping you like to do,
plus some money for staff tips (see the Gratuities section).
Cash or
Traveller’s Cheques ?
Take some of your money in small denominations of traveller’s
checks and some in small denominations of cash. Keep in mind, however, that
Traveller’s cheques by American Express, Citibank, and Thomas Cook are
widely accepted in Santiago, but have very limited use in the smaller towns.
Generally speaking, these three companies offer the fastest replacement in
case they are stolen. Make sure you keep your receipt for the checks
and record of the cheque numbers in a separate place.
In Chile there is no “black market” for dollars transactions as currency exchange is permitted. You will find exchange agencies at the airports, hotels, commercial area of cities and banks. Banks are open 9:00am to 2:00pm, Monday through Friday.
Credit Cards &
ATMs
In cities and in larger country hotels, lodges, restaurants, and
shops, you can use credit cards to charge purchases such as accommodations,
food, and clothing. American Express, Visa, MasterCard, and Diner’s Club are
accepted. In fact, you’ll usually do better by paying with a credit card
because the exchange rate may be higher. You can also use your credit card to
withdraw funds from participating banks in Chile and Argentina, but remember
that you won’t always be in big cities where there are banks. ATM machines
are available in Santiago, Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales and Calafate in the
proximity of the hotels.
Gratuities
All tipping is, of course, at your own discretion and you are under
no obligation to tip. In the unlikely event that you are not satisfied with
the service you received, your tip (or lack thereof) will reflect this.
Trip members can contribute toward a group tip to be shared among the drivers, assistants, cooks and the staff that handle the logistics of the camps and who have assisted you during the trip. For this purpose there is a “tip box” at Ecocamp Torres. We suggest a range of US$6 to US$12 per day depending on the level of satisfaction. Trip members usually tip the trip guide directly. Typically, individual trip members tip the trip guide $6 to $15 per day, depending on the level of satisfaction. Tips are best paid in US cash or in Chilean pesos. US currency in small denominations ($5, $10, $20) is useful for distributing the tips among the entire staff.
Weather & Climate
Remember that between Oct-March it is summer in South America and Santiago
will probably be warm. In the city, daily temperatures will range between 23°C
-28°C (mid-70s and mid-80s F), while at night it will be about 18°C
(upper 60s F).
Farther south, in Patagonia, the weather can be very unpredictable, and can change drastically and unexpectedly. On a sunny day, daytime temperatures can be very pleasant, ranging between 13°C -20°C (low 60s and low 70s F). However, rain, high winds, and cold air can blow in quickly even during the summer months, making the temperatures drop into the –1°C/5°C (30s and 40s F). Snow is a possibility.
You need to be prepared for these changes at all times, as you will most likely experience the area’s fickle moods. Rest assured, however, that just as quickly as the weather turns nasty, it can turn balmy, too! Night time temperatures will most likely be in the –1°C /5°C (30s and 40s F) depending on the weather.
Luggage, Clothing &
Travel Accessories
Try to go as light as possible and take only the essentials. Excess baggage
can be a burden to you and to our support personnel. Keep in mind that there
are limits on how much your baggage can weigh because of weight restrictions
on both international and domestic flights (usually 20 kg / 40 lbs.).
While you are camping, your city clothes can be safely stored in a separate bag at our office in Puerto Natales or at the Ecocamp.
Main Backpack
We ask that you bring one softsided bag
for your gear
with a lock. Make
sure your bag is sturdy and water-resistant.
Daypack
The ideal size is a capacity of 20 to 30 liters (1500 to 2000
cubic inches), and this can double as your flight carry-on bag. Consider
bringing a small, roll-up nylon bag (lockable) to store your city
clothes.
Porters
Trip # PAT025 - The 7 day Trek: porters will help us on days 4 and 5 to carry the largest part of you personal belongs from Camp Pehoe to Refugio Cuernos and then from Refugio Cuernos to Ecocamp Torres. That way you hike only with your daypack. There is only one night “without your main bag”.
Trip # PAT016 - The 10 day Circuit: We use packhorses on days 3, 4 and 8 to take clients backpacks, food and the group equipment. On these days, you hike only with your daypack. You are allowed to send up to 20 kgs (40 lbs.) in your backpack with the horses. The trails are too narrow and rocky to use horses on day 5 to 7, so you need to carry your own or hire porters, at extra cost.Should you wish to use our porter service, be sure to contact us well in advance to arrange this. You are allowed to send up to 15 kgs (30 lbs.) with a porter.
Clothing
Trekking in
Patagonia requires that you bring comfortable and adequate clothing to protect
you from cold and wet weather as you must be prepared for the worst. We
strongly recommend that you use a layering system with synthetic clothing
(such as polypropylene, Capilene, or pile) plus silk (if you can afford
it). Wool and cotton get very heavy when wet and take a long time to dry out,
so are not recommended. The man made fibres are lightweight and wick away
perspiration, and also dry very quickly.
We have not included quantities for each item listed. Use your own judgment, based on the expected weather conditions, the length of your trip and overall packing/weight restrictions for your luggage.
Packing List
Base Layer
Regular underwear.
Synthetics are easier to wash and dry.
Synthetic thermal underwear. You need lightweight long underwear top and bottom of a polyester-type fabric. Wool and wool/synthetic blends are also suitable.
Thermal Layer
Shirt / Fleece -
Long-sleeved, synthetic or wool shirt.
Shirt / Fleece - Short-sleeved synthetic or cotton/synthetic T-shirts.
Sweater/Jacket - Medium-weight sweater or jacket of synthetic fabric, such as fleece.
Full-length pants, preferably of quick-drying synthetic fabric.
Hiking shorts, preferably of quick-drying synthetic fabric.
Pile/fleece pants, ideal for around camp.
Shell (outer layer)
Jacket / Parka - Medium-weight down or synthetic- fill jacket (10-12 oz. of down or 15-20 oz. of fiberfill).
Waterproof Jacket Rain / wind proof parka (must fit over bulky clothing).
(optional) Sturdy poncho to protect daypack and camera gear from rain.
Waterproof Trousers Rain / wind proof pants, preferably with full-length side zipper (must fit over your other pants).
Headwear Wool or pile hat or ski cap.
Sun hat with wide brim, preferably with a chinstrap to keep it from blowing off.
Bandanna. It will keep your neck from getting sunburned and can double as a hand towel.
Gloves or mitts (wool or pile). Waterproofed shell gloves or mitts.
Socks
Medium weight synthetic hiking socks.
Inner / liner hiking socks (synthetic) that can be washed and dried quickly.
Socks (synthetic for easy washing and drying) that are suitable for the shoes you’ll be wearing while in towns.
FootwearMedium-weight, all leather, sturdy hiking boots with good ankle support, and a 100% flat sole (no slope on heal). Your hiking boots should be waterproofed, well broken in, and be suitable for prolonged walking on rocky terrain and possibly snow.
Tennis shoes or River Running sandals to wear in camp (optional).Comfortable walking shoes to wear while in towns.
Sleeping gear (only for PAT017 10 day Paine circuit)
Light or medium- weight sleeping bag (synthetic recommended with temperature rating of –15°C/5°F). (only for PAT017 10 day Paine circuit)
Foam Mat / Therm-a-Rest sleeping pad. (only for PAT017 10 day Paine circuit)
Other Items
Swimsuit (you never know...).
One set of casual city clothes.
Hiking sticks / poles (optional but highly recommended). These are helpful, if not essential, to relieve the impact on your knees during long down hill sections. Some people use uphill as well; however, it is not recommended to habitually use them (it could compromise the natural muscular balance of your legs and ankles). We recommend to practice with one, or two, before the hike. This is only a recommendation and not for everybody.
Accessories
2 Wide mouth water bottles, 1- litre capacity. Bring two and make sure they are leak-proof, heavy-duty plastic. Lightweight plastic bottles, such as the type used for bottled mineral water and the kind of bottles used by cyclists, aren’t recommended, they leak and break.
Toiletry kit soap, toothbrush, and so on.
Towel and washcloth. (The campsites we use have hot water showers).
Mosturizing lotion. The air in Patagonia is very dry.
Insect repellent.
Knee support / brace if you’re prone to knee trouble.
Sunglasses
Spare pair of prescription glasses, prescription sunglasses, or contact lenses. (Attention contact lens wearers: parts of Patagonia are very dusty - plan to wear glasses some of the time.) Plus a note of your prescription.
Sunscreen of SPF 15 or higher. The sun in Patagonia is much more intense than you probably imagine.
Sunscreen lipstick of SPF 15 or higher.
Small flashlight with spare batteries, or small headlamp with spare batteries.
Small padlocks or combination locks for your duffels.
Plastic bags of various sizes for keeping things sorted out in your duffel. Zip- lock bags work well. (They’re also great for camera gear.)
Nylon stuff sacks to stash your bulky gear into.
Heavyweight plastic garbage bag(s) to use as a waterproofing liner inside your daypack, backpack, or duffel.
Camera and plenty of film. Bring lots more film than you think you’ll need. You won’t be able to buy more once we are trekking, and it may be very expensive in the towns you’ll visit.Spare camera batteries.
Personal first aid kit.
Swiss Army type pocket knife with can opener and scissors.
Optional Travel Accessories
Binoculars.
Watch.
Toilet paper is provided while camping, but you may want to bring one or two rolls of your favorite brand.
Repair kit with needle, thread, and safety pins.
Reading and writing material.
Spanish/English dictionary.
Your favourite snack food. We’ll have plenty of excellent food, but you might want to bring along your favorite snack food (such as raisins or chocolate). Although we accommodate vegetarians, and we’ll be served fresh fruits and vegetables, meat is one of Chile’s and Argentina’s main staples. Vegetarians might want to bring some protein supplements.
Photo & Video
Gear
Although Patagonia offers
unmatched photo opportunities, the weather changes very quickly and the sky is
often overcast. The light quality and conditions constantly change, requiring
a wide range of film speeds.
Bringing the right camera and film will determine the quality of your photographs of the trip. A good SLR camera with telephoto lens is ideal. Lenses longer than 300mm will require a tripod for good results and may be too cumbersome to lug around.
Bring a mixture of fast and slower film. Long lenses require faster film, so consider 200 ISO (ASA) for a larger lens in low light conditions, and use slower 64 ISO (ASA) film for superior colour slides. One disadvantage of low ISO (ASA) film is that you may need a tripod or beanbag to steady the camera during early morning and evening shots. Many people like to bring small point-and-shoot cameras for their lighter weight and size.
While You’re On the Trip (if you made your reservation early enough you may be lucky and have space at our Ecocamps)
Ecocamp Torres:
You
will sleep in comfortable 12 ft diameter domes with 2 beds in each. There is a very cozy 30 ft
dome that hosts the kitchen/living/dining areas and another 30 ft dome for
bathroom with hot shower and composting toilets.
Upgraded Camp Pehoe:
Two people will share a very roomy four-person mountain tent. These tents are
already set up when you arrive. Tents include sleeping bags with polar
liners, inflatable mattress and light. The campsite has huts with flush
toilets and hot water shower.
Camping while
hiking the circuit (PAT017):
While camping, two people
will share a very roomy three-person tent. On the first day of camping, your
guides will give a demonstration of how to pitch and take down your tent.
After that you will need to do it yourself. Not all the campsites have hot
showers.
Laundry
Laundry
service is not available at the Ecocamps, but you’ll be able to do some hand
laundry there.
Electricity
Electricity in Chile and Argentina is 220 Volts. Plugs are the two or three
pin variety. Some hotels may have adapters for appliances. There is not
electricity available at our camps.
Time Zones
During north hemisphere winter season, Chile and Argentina are Greenwich Mean
Time minus three hours (Daylight Savings Time is in effect). That means
Santiago is two hours ahead of New York and five hours ahead of
California.
Communications
Fax machines, telephones and Internet access are available at Punta Arenas and
Puerto Natales. In Torres del Paine you
will find a satellite public telephone at the mountain hut close to the
Ecocamp Torres.
Cross Cultural Tips
Remember that you are traveling to a foreign country where you are the
visitor, and need to adapt to the culture and customs of the local people, not
vice-versa. Although English is fast becoming the international language, it
should not be assumed that everyone can understand or speak it. Should you
have difficulty communicating, please ask your guide for assistance. It is
also common for events to arise that place your own cultural beliefs in
contrast with those of your hosts. On a short trip, you will not learn all, or
even most, of the cultural differences. It is possible, however, to learn
enough to better understand these differences, and to attune your behavior to
that of the people around you.
A
lot of the comforts you are accustomed to may not be available to you, and
time flows at a different pace. Patience and respect are the crucial
ingredients for a successful trip and an enriching
experience.
Environmental
Responsibility
We pride ourselves on being an environmentally
responsible company. We request that on trek you carry out whatever you carry
in, including non-biodegradable items such as batteries, flashlight bulbs,
empty film canisters, empty plastic containers, and so on. The areas of Chile
and Argentina that we trek in do not have the proper facilities to process
this kind of waste and your throwaways will end up in the river or tossed down
a hillside. We suggest that you carry a large zip-lock bag in your pocket
while you’re on the trail for daily accumulations, and also keep a large,
heavy- gauge trash bag in your duffel to store your trash. As you pack for
your trip, think about ways to minimize the trash that you will have to bring
home. Take film out of paper containers, for example, and take such things as
your powdered drink mixes and “wash and dry” towelettes out of their foil
packets and put them into reusable plastic containers or zip-lock bags.
Common Courtesies
We request that clients do not smoke in vehicles, at meals, or in group
situations. We have asked our guides, drivers, and staff who smoke to follow
the same consideration. It is absolutely forbidden to smoke inside
domes and/or tents.
Santiago
At 1,555 feet in elevation and fronting the usually snowcapped Andes,
Santiago, the capital of Chile, is a blend of the colonial and modern.
Historic buildings share Santiago’s wide boulevards with new high rise
skyscrapers. Points of interest include San Cristobal and Santa Lucia’s
hills (for excellent panoramic city views), several museums, San Francisco
church, the Plaza de Armas (including the National Cathedral), City Hall, and
shopping arcades. There is excellent nightlife with superb restaurants
featuring Chile’s outstanding seafood.
Security
Santiago is fairly safe to walk around in, but there are problems, as in all
big cities of the world. You’ll be wise to follow some simple safety
precautions. We encourage you to take taxis, day or night. Don’t walk around
the streets at night, and if you do, do it in the company of fellow travellers.
Leave valuables such as traveler’s checks, passport, and air tickets locked
in the hotel safe - don’t carry them with you because purse snatching does
occur. Carry just a reasonable amount of spending money and a credit card
stashed in a money belt or hidden pouch (bags and purses attract attention).
Shopping
Chile offers a wide range of goods made from copper, bronze, and leather. Jewelry made from the deep blue lapiz lazuli stone is a favorite buy. A good
selection of Chilean handicrafts can be found at shops throughout the country.
In Santiago you’ll find small boutiques and malls in Providencia and
downtown; both Ahumada and Huerfanos are traffic-free streets with many
shopping opportunities. Shopping hours are 9:00am to 8:00pm, Monday through
Friday, and 10:00am to 2:00pm on Saturday.
Gastronomy
Chile is famous for its many excellent brands of wine, including Undurraga,
Cousino Macul, and Concha y Toro, which are exported worldwide. Seafood is
abundant and outstanding, particularly exotic shellfish. Local specialties
also include humitas (seasoned spiced grated corn wrapped in husks and
boiled); empanadas (savory steaming hot meat pies); and cazuela (beef or
chicken stew flavored with Chile’s unique herbs).
Recommended Reading
You’ll enjoy your trip so much more if you are well informed about the
places you’ll visit and the wildlife you’ll see. Your trip will be greatly
enhanced by reading selections from this list.
what some of our previous guests thought about it all
* Darwin’s journals, especially the part referring to Chile and Tierra del Fuego.
* In Patagonia – Bruce Chatwin
* Patagonia Express - Luis Sepulveda: all his books are good. Patagonia Express is published in English under the title 'The Full Circle'. His book Fin del Mundo is also wonderful if you are planning a trip to the far south. This may not be available in English but his Spanish is clear and simple and they make excellent beginning Spanish books for serious students.
* The Thin Country - Sarah Wheeler
* Bridges: The Uttermost parts of the Earth. Hard to get hold of, long, but totally fascinating account of missionaries living among Tierra del Fuego Indians early in this century.
* Francisco Coloane: Cabo de Hornos and lots of other stories about the life of sheep farmers in Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia. They have been translated but again, are some of the easier Spanish texts to read. Both he and Sepulveda are internationally known Chilean writers.
* Jose Donoso is a prolific Chilean novelist translated into English (Grove Press).
* Isabel Allende: best known for the House of the Spirits, which is very evocative of what happened here.
* Across Patagonia: Lady Florence Dixie
* Birds of Latin America, Collins edition.
* Pinochet in Piccadilly: Andy Beckett – brilliant introduction to trying to understand the political history of Chile.