D
ay
1 (Sunday, February): Bangkok to Hanoi
Depart today from Bangkok for Hanoi. On arrival transfer to the Sofitel
Metropole for a 3-night stay (Deluxe room with full breakfast daily). After
check in, meet Tim and his staff in the lobby for a one-hour orientation
ride through the city by cyclo, arriving at the Hanoi Press Club (see http://www.hanoi-pressclub.com/
for details) for dinner. The club is located just behind the hotel. Tonight
Tim will conduct a Q & A session for guests. Meals:
Dinner.
Accom: Sofitel
Metropole Hanoi (http://sofitel-hanoi-vietnam.com/metropole/)
Day
2 (Monday, February
) : Wartime Hanoi
Today’s visits around Hanoi are designed to give an insight into what life
was like in Hanoi during the war. Sites will include the Ho Chi Min Mausoleum
and Museum along with Uncle Ho’s wartime residence, the Army Museum, and the
remaining parts of Hoa Lo Prison - the old “Hanoi Hilton”. Today along
with touring, enjoy a traditional Vietnamese lunch at the Thien Thai
Restaurant, in the heart of Hanoi’s old quarter. Meals:
Breakfast, Lunch.
Accom: Sofitel
Metropole Hanoi
Day
3 (Tuesday, February
): Hanoi
– Dong Ha (Via
Hue)
Today, we will arrange a series of meetings in Hanoi with military officers,
perhaps including General Giap, to discuss the Trail and it’s importance to
the war. This afternoon, transfer to the airport for an afternoon flight to
Hue. On arrival, transfer overland (2 hours) to Dong Ha for dinner and an
overnight stay at the Hieu Giang Hotel, a newly built and modern hotel in the
downtown of Dong Ha, now the provincial capital of Quang Tri Province.
Meals:
Breakfast, Dinner. Accom:
Hieu Giang Hotel
D
ay
4 (Wednesday, February
): Dong
Ha – Ha Tinh
This morning, travel briefly west on Route #9 before turning north on Route
#15 to the Con Thien Firebase. During the war, it was one of the northern-most
US Marine firebases. Con Thien was where Marines in the field called in for
help from the powerful 155's, but more often than not, it was the Marines
at Con Thien who called for help. This isolated firebase was a thorn in the
side to the North Vietnamese and they tried many times to overrun the base.
There is not much left of Con Thien today. Visit the old command bunker
standing gray and naked, stripped of its sandbag covering; the big guns are
long gone and peanut fields have taken over from the "fields of
fire". From here,
continue north to visit the Truong Son National Cemetery and the famed tunnels
at Vinh Moc.
Truong
Son National Cemetery is the Vietnamese equivalent of Arlington, and is also
known as the "Cemetery of the Martyrs of the Ho Chi Minh Trail". It
is just south of the Ben Hai River and is quite impressive in its grandeur.
The endless rows of white tombstones are a memorial to the tens of thousands
of Vietnamese soldiers and other military personnel killed in and around the
Truong Son Mountains.
The
Vinh Moc tunnels on the northern bank of the Ben Hai river are a tribute to
Vietnamese ingenuity. Faced with incessant bombing by US and ARVN forces, in
what was termed a “free fire zone”, the villagers at Vinh Moc were faced
with three options. One was to leave their homes and livelihood, two was to
stay in their homes and probably be killed, or three was to start digging.
They took the third option and embarked on an excavation project, taking 18
months to complete, that would eventually relocate the entire village
underground. Unlike the tunnels at Cu Chi outside Saigon that were designed
for fighting, these tunnels were built to be lived in. The tunnels you will
visit today have been partially restored and reinforced and there is an
excellent museum with an emotional display of memorabilia.
From
here, continue north to Dong Hoi where we take lunch. In April, 1972 Richard
Nixon ordered the US Navy to obliterate this area in what became known as the
Battle of Dong Hoi, because antiquated Vietnamese shore batteries and two MIG
fighters attacked four destroyers, three aircraft carriers, and two helicopter
attack ships just offshore. After lunch continue along the coast and over
Ngang Pass to Ha Tinh.
The
Ngang Pass is a spectacular coastal mountain in the easternmost section of the
Hoanh Son Mountains (Transversal Range), which stretches from the Lao border
to the sea along the 18th parallel. Until the 11th century, the range formed
Vietnam's frontier with the Kingdom of Champa. Later, the French used it as
the border between their protectorates of Annam and Tonkin with the “Annam
Gate” (Porte d'Annam) still visible at the top of the pass. Late today,
arrive in Ha Tinh and check in at the Binh Minh Hotel for the night.
Meals:
Breakfast, Lunch,
Dinner. Accom:
Binh Minh Hotel
Day
5 (Thursday, February
): Ha
Tinh – Mu
Gia Pass
(Lao border)
– Ho Chi
Minh Trail
– Lang Kang
Village
Today,
we head out for Laos via Route 12 and the Mu Gia Pass, known among the solders
of the north as the "Door of Death", which took them into the complex road
system known as the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Today we must get an early start, as
Route 12 is a hilly and difficult road to follow, mostly a dirt track. We
should reach the Lao border by noon. After formalities, we cross into
Laos. Transfer luggage to our Lao 4WD vehicles waiting at the border. These mountains
shape the weather systems on either side, it is quite different in Laos. Even during the hottest
time of year, the pass is cool.
This pass was also one of the primary entry points into the Laos Trail.
American pilots spent a lot of time above the Mu Gia, and the “truck
count” of bombed and disabled transport trucks – was for several years –
one of the American’s reference points as to progress stopping supplies
moving on The Trail.
Then continue down the road from the pass to the lower slopes, which the
American pilots called “the Dog House.” Continue to Lang Kang Village,
where we will stay for the night.
Try to
imagine what life might have been like for the villagers. The headman will
tell how the entire village had to live for years in the nearby limestone
caves, and other hardships the local people endured. He will be able to tell
of air crashes in the area, and time permitting, we can visit one today. Meals:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner. Accom:
Homes of Village
Headmen and Elders
Day
6 (Friday, February
): Ho
Chi Minh Trail:
Lang Kang Laos
– Major Edward
Hudgen's Air crash Site – Sae
Bang Fai River
Area
After a simple camp breakfast made by our staff, the village headman
will show us the caves in which the entire village hid during the bombing of
the area, which left nothing standing at the time. Now there is fresh tree
growth, but the trail is still evident. Also we will visit at least one
aircraft crash site in the area. There were several F4 Phantom jets, and
several T-28 and other rescue planes shot down here. Likely we will visit
Ban Nahom, where Major Hudgens was shot down in 1969. The Major flew
“Sandy Missions” rescue missions from the SAR base in Nakorn Phanom. We will
walk for about 40 minutes walk over rice fields, and 5 minutes over
rocky ground to reach the bottom of the karst.
Little
is left of the crash as it was scavenged by local villagers years ago, but
lots of 20mm ammo is scattered about. You will see many bomb craters as we
walk, and one can only imagine what life must have been like
under the constant rain of ordinance which pounded this area every night (and
many days) for years! The villagers who watched the plane crash, who scavenged
it, and who identified the pilot etc are there, and will tell the story
through translation.
Moving
south we will see more and more areas that are still have barren craters. Crossing
the Bang Fai river requires 4WD today and is difficult enough already. What
might this crossing have felt like when sharp-eyed American gunners waited
miles above ? This afternoon we’ll stay at a village next to the Sae
Bang Fair River. In the afternoon we’ll explore the area with the help of
the local village elders. We’ll have a chance to listen to their stories. Meals:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner. Accom:
Homes of Village
Headmen and Elders.
Day
7 (Saturday, February
): Ho
Chi Minh Trail:
Sae Bang Fai
River Area –
Na Gnom Village
Continuing South from here we are travelling over the most heavily bombed area
in the world. Much of the UXO is cleared away, but we only have to ask a
headman to show us some bombs, and you will see huge UXO. If and when we see
a UXO team (likely), we’ll stop for tea with them, and hear their story. We
may also get to see the detonation of a big bomb. The route this day brings us
through picturesque jungle, along small streams and past many villages. We
will take this leisurely and stop often for breaks and at any sites of
interest. By early afternoon we’ll reach Baan Na Gnom, and you will have the
opportunity to experience the ‘real Laos’! Meals:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner. Accom:
Homes of Village
Headmen and Elders
Day
8 (Sunday, February
): Na
Gnom Village Area
– School & Village
(Adopt A Village
Project)
Spend the day either with UXO staff or looking at UXO in the area with village
elders. This will depend on the availability of UXO Teams at the time.
Currently we expect at least one team to be in the area at that time. If we
are lucky, we may witness the disposal of a bomb. This is an awesome
experience; even from 1000 meters away (safe distance), a small bomb of 750
pounds exploding will rattle you to your bones. The sound echoes through the
limestone hills many seconds after the blast, and the air is suddenly filled with
dust in a radius of hundreds of meters. It will teach anyone a new meaning for
the word ‘respect’.
Spend the afternoon meeting the people of this area and visiting the local
schools. This area is home to some of the most hospitable people in the world.
These shy and charming “Lao Theung” people were sadly caught between the
two players - USA & Vietnam. Their proximity to The Trail made them ideal
for the NVA and Viet Cong to press into service as porters. We will use this
day to determine the needs of one village so that our “Adopt a Village
Program” can provide for those needs. You will be most welcome to join these
meetings with the headmen, the elders, and the many children who are sure to
be in attendance! Then return to the village for dinner made by our staff. Meals:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner. Accom:
Homes of Village
Headmen and Elders
Day
9 (Monday, February
): Na
Gnom Village
– Xepon (T’chepone)
Town
After an early breakfast, pack up and continue the drive south. On the
bumpy drive to Xepon we'll see lots of war detritus. The roads on this stretch
are better than elsewhere, as an Australian mining concern has invested in the
area, and is therefore helping the Lao government to upgrade infrastructure.
Nearby Xepon (T’chepone) – a few km to the northwest – was the largest
concentration of Vietnamese troops in Laos. Old tanks and artillery from
Operation LAMSON 719 of the ARVN still bear mute testimony to battles in the
area. Local Pathet Lao officers will discuss their roles in the actions of 30
years ago. Here, those who wish may talk with locals through translators, and
visit battle sites with guide and local villagers as local guides. Meals:
Breakfast, Lunch,
Dinner. Accom: Guest
House
Day
10 (Tuesday, February
): Laos – Hue
Xepon is only 26km from the Lao border. After crossing back into Vietnam, take
Route #9 east to Dakrong Bridge where we turn south on Highway #13 towards
Aluoi and the Ashau Valley. In the Aluoi area we visit both the waterfalls and
some of the tribal villages of the Ba Hy, Ca Tu and Taoi. Today we visit the
former military camps in Aluoi and Ashau along with landing zones - Cunningham,
Erskine and Razor before continuing south to the Ashau Valley and Mount Apbia
(Hamburger Hill). Here we explore the area by vehicle and on foot before
continuing east over the Truong Son Mountains on to Hue. On arrival, check in
at the Huong Giang Hotel, a former US Officers Club, for a 2-night stay. As we
will arrive in the evening, probably around 09:00, dinner is on your own. Meals:
Dinner. Accom:
Huong Giang Hotel
Note:
Today is a long day of about 12 to 14 hours, from the Lao border to Hue, so a
late arrival in Hue is unavoidable.
Day
11 (Wednesday, February
): Wartime
Hue
During the Tet Offensive of 1968, Hue was the scene of some of the most
intense fighting in all of Vietnam. Visit the Thien Mu Pagoda, Imperial
City and The Citadel, levelled during the combat but now beginning to be
restored. This evening, we have arranged for a reception and dinner with local
English-speaking veterans of the Tet Offensive at the hotel. Meals:
Breakfast,
Dinner. Accom:
Huong Giang Hotel.
Day
12 (Thursday, February
): Hue
– Saigon
This morning, enjoy a bit of free time before flying south to Saigon. Please
refer to the Suggested Air Schedule for details of these flights. On arrival,
transfer to the Caravelle Hotel for a 2-night stay. After check-in, transfer
to the former Presidential Palace for a private tour followed by a cocktail
reception on the grounds with local attendees. The reception will be followed
by a private dinner on the rooftop restaurant of the famous Rex Hotel, also a
former US military facility. Meals:
Breakfast, Dinner. Accom:
Caravelle Hotel (http://www.caravellehotel.com/)
Day
13 (Friday, February
): Explore
Saigon & Cu
Chi – Farewell Dinner
Spend a few hours today with Tim and your local guide exploring this
intriguing city and then drive out of town to explore the tunnels at Cu
Chi. Tonight we will all enjoy a farewell dinner and party with Tim. You
will receive a copy of some of Tim’s work (Photographic & written) as
well as other souvenirs from the adventure. Meals:
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner. Accom:
Caravelle Hotel
D
ay
14 (Saturday, February
): Saigon
– Bangkok
A free day in Saigon until departure. Arrive in Bangkok, and transfer
to the Plaza Athenee Hotel. Meals:
Breakfast. Accom:
Plaza Athenee
Hotel (http://www.hotel-plaza-athenee.com/)
Day
15 (Sunday, February
): Bangkok
– Home
Depart Bangkok for home. Meals:
Breakfast. Accom:
None
Price
per person 2005 - GB£ & US$:
GB£4110
/ US$6480
(subject to amendment as the trip has been postponed until 2005)
What
is Included
All accommodations at properties indicated in the itinerary based on twin
sharing room. Meals included as indicated in the itinerary. All transfers
and sightseeing indicated in the itinerary to be provided with driver.
Local English-speaking guide in every destination. All admissions, tolls,
and other sightseeing fees.
2 Autographed books from Tim Page. Air tickets as detailed below:-
Domestic Air tickets
• Hanoi – Hue
• Danang – Saigon
International
Air tickets
• Bangkok – Hanoi
• Saigon - Bangkok
What
is Not Included
The price allows for joining in Bangkok and does not include international
airfare from the UK / USA - Bangkok - UK / USA. Airport and passenger taxes (local
or international). All visa processing costs and fees. Travel and medical
insurance. Any items of a personal nature such as gratuities to
driver/guides, beverages, telephone / telex / fax charges and
laundry. Services or meals NOT indicated on the itinerary. vaccination
costs, personal clothing and equipment, all items of a personal nature and
all alcoholic and bottled / canned drinks.